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Orlando Culinary Academy Culinary Tour of Vietnam
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Chef2Chef News Desk
April 8 and 9
(This first entry was written on the plane to
An adventure can’t always start out great.
This one didn’t.
Our flight from
April 10
We arrived in
Back in good spirits we headed to
We ate at a wonderful restaurant called the Mandarin. It was very elegant. Everyone loved the food and the atmosphere. The service was impeccable. We all retired to our hotel, The Bong Sen, and slept the sleep of the dead. What an amazing three days this has been.
April 11
This morning after some much needed rest we all had some breakfast at the hotel. They had traditional breakfast meats and breads as well as Pho (noodle soup) and of course juices and the mud they call coffee. It’s not too bad with a lot of cream in it. We then boarded the bus for a traditional Pho restaurant. Pho is traditional Vietnamese breakfast with broth, noodles, herbs (cilantro, Thai basil, jalapeno, sprouts, condiments (sriracha, chilies in oil, hoi sin sauce or oyster sauce) and beef or chicken. In the South it is usually beef, called Pho Bo. It was delicious! We were able to look into the kitchens and it was quite a sight. Large pots simmering the beef, usually brisket, women slicing the beef, preparing broth and cleaning herbs. There are large pieces of beef hanging over the pots and dripping into the broth; nothing like what we see in American restaurants. The food is always freshly made. There is no preparing the day before. The tables in the restaurant are laden with platters of herbs and sprouts. You dress your Pho with whatever you like in it.
We then visited Thien Hau pagoda, a temple where people worship, pray, and light incense to pray for family, friends, and the dead. It was a very serene setting that was spiritually moving. Beautiful carvings and motif were on display and the smell of incense was everywhere. Quan Yin energy was felt as we observed people praying.
We then proceeded to the Ben Thanh market. It looks much like our flee markets except the fresh foods are on display all over the place, and I mean fresh! There are stalls with every kind of animal you can think of (lots of it still alive!), women cutting and butchering, pork, beef, ox, fish, shrimp, frogs, squids; you name it, it was there. The produce was abundant and endless! These stalls were on the outside of the market. On the inside you could get lots of these foods cooked and served to you. Further in were all of the stalls where they sold clothes, jewelry, knock off watches, kitchen utensils; I bought a food carving kit for around $9 that sells in our bookstore for $120. The currency exchange rate here is phenomenal. 16,000 of there money (called dong, pronounced dau) is equal to $1 of our money. Everyone had a great time shopping.
One of the sad things about
We then took a trip to the Vietnam War Remnants Museum.
A truly life changing experience.
This was a very sad and touching experience.
Everyone was moved deeply by the pictures, and accounts of soldier’s struggles and the results of the war.
It was very disturbing to us all.
Man’s inhumanity to man was on display in pictures and war correspondences from the battle field.
It was very hard to stay in any area for long.
It was quite an experience; not one I want to do again.
There were fighter planes, tanks and rocket launching devices on display as well as actual prison cells and torture chambers.
I have a hard time even writing about it now.
We were all moved to tears.
Thematic exhibitions included; historical truths, vestiges of war crimes and aftermaths, requiem (collection of photos taken by war reporters), and
We visited a huge post office; a catholic church built by the French and saw beautiful architecture and national buildings that are dear to the Vietnamese people.
After a short break we went to dinner at Ngoc Suong seafood restaurant. This is a local restaurant that caters to local clientele. The food was excellent. We had Prawns steamed in coconut juice, Seafood Fried Rice, Sautéed morning glory with garlic, Ngoc Suong seafood Salad, Grilled river prawns (they were huge!) and watermelon for dessert.
April 12
This morning when went to a small family owned restaurant that served Pho to us on a makeshift table on the side walk in front of the place.
It was excellent.
We also had sticky rice with peanuts and pork floss (finely shredded pork).
The daily Pho has become a habit and a great way to start a day.
We then traveled to the countryside in the Mekong Delta.
The family that we visited makes noodles.
They had a small factory behind their house.
They buy the rice, a short grain variety, and soak it overnight.
It is then placed in a big grinder.
They had mechanical equipment, but in the past it was done by hand on big grinding tablets much like the old olive oil presses used in
Our next stop was the Cu Chi Tunnels. During the Vietnam War a huge tunnel system was utilized to hide from the superior fire power of the invading forces. We were shown tunnel entrances that were so small it was amazing. Some of us took turns going into the small entrance. I am 150 pounds and I just fit in the hole. They also had on display the booby traps that were used. It was horrific.
We went back to the hotel for a little rest and then to a hands on cooking class with Cam Van, one of
April 13
After a frenzied exit from the hotel we flew to Danang.
We stopped at an excellent fresh seafood restaurant called the Aspara.
Tran and I went back into the kitchen.
It was very clean and efficient.
In the kitchen they had tanks where all of the seafood they served was kept alive.
They had lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and fish all alive and swimming around.
A girl demonstrated a beautiful tomato rose carving for us.
Our menu consisted of crab meat and corn soup, quang noodles, crispy fried squid, grilled beef poached in coconut juice, belly fish simmered in clay pot, water spinach sautéed in garlic, and watermelon for dessert.
It was excellent.
We visited the most spectacular mountain called the marble mountain.
We had to climb up the mountain on steps carved out of it.
It was an exhausting climb but well worth it.
There was a large cave in the mountain that is used for worshiping.
Daoism and Buddhism were represented in little shrines and there was a huge carving of a deity way up on the wall.
The energy in this cave was exhilarating.
Words don’t suffice to describe the feeling in the air of that cave.
We then continued on to Hoi An to our resort.
It is paradise.
The people are friendly and helpful, the resort is simply beautiful.
It was nice to be out of the city.
For dinner we walked into the little town and had a great meal at the Brothers Café.
Our menu consisted of Minced beef and fungus soup, spring rolls, Hoi an White Roses dumplings, Grilled beef with chili and lemongrass, green mustard leaves broth with shrimp and sponge cake.
Sufficiently stuffed we walked back to the resort for some pool time and then early to bed to be ready for our
April 14
We woke up early and took a boat ride to the Hoi An fish market.
It was like nothing you can imagine.
Hundreds of people were coming and going by boats to load and unload fresh seafood.
The market itself was pure pandemonium.
Women squatting on the floor all over the place, sorting and cleaning fish, squid, eels, etc.
Further in there were aisles of people selling all kinds of things such as; produce, teas, Hoi An sandwiches, drinks; you name it, it gets sold in
After breakfast at the resort we went to the Tra Que herb village. It was truly beautiful. Row after neat row of herbs, lettuces and small plants as far as the eye could see. People working the land were dressed in the same garb and using the same tools that have been common for hundreds of years. It struck me that if I were to see the same farm three hundred years ago, it would have been the same scene. We went to the Hoi An bread factory where they make fresh baguettes. Our tour guide, Quynh, told us that it was one of the few things that the French left behind that the Vietnamese still hold on to today. Of course the humidity is so high that they eat the bread for breakfast because it doesn’t stay crisp for long. We ate some right out of the oven. It was a real taste of home for us and we all ate an entire loaf.
That afternoon we went to Miss Vy’s School of cooking in the Cargo Club Restaurant and Hoi An Patisserie.
She was the most professional and polished instructor that I have ever seen.
She and her Sous chef were both beautiful women and very efficient chefs.
I kept looking around for cameras, thinking that we had messed up and this was the day we were supposed to wear chef coats for filming.
We found out later that she travels to
April 15
We woke up this morning very sad that we had to leave Hoi An.
It was a 2 hour drive to
The Citadel was constructed by Emperor Gia Long in 1804 for the private use of the emperor and his household, the enormous moated Citadel is comprised of three separate walled enclosures.
The outer citadel, surrounded by a six-mile (10km) perimeter wall punctuated by 10 gates, frames the Imperial Enclosure used for official business.
At the very centre is the
We retired back to the hotel for a rest and then went for the best cooking class and dinner at the Tha Om house. It is a spectacular garden house, where all of the walls are open and you step from room to room over low ledges. The gardens were splendid, filled with bonsais and lily ponds. Our class consisted of learning yet another type of spring roll made with lace rice paper, grilled beef on a tile, and another beef in lot leaf dish. Lots of the things we are seeing and learning are starting to be repetitive, but in name only. Everywhere you go they prepare the same dish but with their own regional differences. We sat down to dinner to the accompaniment of a traditional Vietnamese band playing the sweetest music. At dinner each table had there own personal waitress that served and cooked right at the table, They wore traditional Hue girl outfits that consist of form fitting slacks and tight silk tops that go down to the knees, but with a slit up both sides that reveal about one inch of skin at the waste. It is said of these outfits that they reveal nothing and everything. The food was superb and many things that we experienced here brought tears to my eyes. I have cried more on this trip than I have in years. I toasted the owner of the house at the end of the meal by telling him that we didn’t want to leave because for the rest of our lives we will be disappointed in the food and hospitality after experiencing his.
April 16
After a breakfast of Bun Bo Hue, the pho of the central region, we took a sightseeing tour of the Royal tomb of Tu Duc.
It was interesting but somewhat anticlimactic.
We are getting a little more history than we really wanted, but it is still enjoyable to most of us.
We had lunch and a cooking demo at La Residence hotel with Chef Stephan.
He is an international chef from
We went and saw a show at the Water Puppet Theatre. This is a puppet show dating back to the 1100’s. The rice farmers would stage these shows in the water. The puppets are controlled by long poles and the puppeteers are behind grass so you can’t see them. It was amazing. A band is on the side of the stage and they provide the music and some of the puppets voices. Very entertaining. We had dinner ant the Indochine Restaurant. Our menu consisted of hot and sour seafood soup, fried crab spring rolls, grilled beef with honey sauce, steamed tofu with perfume mushrooms, stir fried morning glory, baked rolled pork with coconut, stir fried prawns with peanuts, steamed rice and fresh fruit. It was a feast, to say the least.
April 17
In the morning we went to the Koto cooking school.
KOTO started as a small sandwich shop run by nine street children in
“The greatest accomplishment for the person who has helped you is to see you stand on your own two feet or to reach your destination and then in turn to watch you come back and help someone else that reminds you of yourself, because if you Know One then you should Teach One.”
KOTO trainees either come from living on the streets of
We were instructed by Nguyen Thuy Ha’ who is a graduate of the program and is training to be an instructor. She was very good, could easily work at our school. I said earlier that cooks all over the world are the same and that body language and tone of voice work as well as spoken language. At one point Thuy had misplaced something and she barked out something in Vietnamese; one of our students immediately picked up a bowl and handed it to her, knowing that was what she wanted. We all laughed. All of us were touched by the story of the school and many students plan on sending money, cookbooks and supplies to them when we get back to the states. We had three of the garnish tool kits left and one of the students had a cleaver he had bought, that we donated to the school. We felt very good about this. Also the boxes weren’t going to fit in anyone’s suitcases. J
We had a wonderful lunch and once again were welling up inside. Chef Tran talked to a class that was experiencing their first day of school and the staff and students just loved it. To have a VN person tell his success story about hard work and never giving up was very special to them. We made many new friends and I am already starting to receive e-mails from some of the students.
We then went to the ancient quarter where there are literally thousands of shops where each street features a different product or food. The shopping was phenomenal. Everyone went crazy.
We went to Cha ca La Vong for dinner. This is one of those family owned restaurants that have been in existence for hundreds of years. They serve one thing and there is always a line out the door. You sit down and they bring you a drink, a cold towel to wipe the sweat off. The food is simply fish seared on the table in a charcoal burning stove with vegetables and turmeric, and rice noodle are served on the side. There is one stove for every three or four guest so the place is very hot. They know how to keep the fire at the perfect level because it never stops cooking and it never burns. It was outstanding! The servers just keep the pans full until you stop eating. We were stuffed and happy.
April 18
We went to the
big food market in
We had a full day excursion, first stopping at Mr. Son’s farm. It was quite an experience. He is part of a village that is in the middle of nowhere and the local people all had to come out and stare at us because they don’t see white people in their village. They never see people as big as us either. Once again we see evidence of the fact that these simple people “work for living”. They are not interested in becoming rich, and success to them is feeding their families and taking care of their communities. Once again, very humbling. We then had a three hour bus ride to Ha Long Bay, listed as a World Heritage Area of outstanding natural beauty. Legend has it that it represents a “Dragon descending to the sea. It has 1969 limestone islets rising from the sea and many of them have great little grottos and caves. We explored one cave that was huge where they had cut out steps all through it making it a good tourist area. We had a great seafood lunch on board the boat. We stopped at one of the floating stores and bought live fish and langoustines. Tran prepared the fish (steamed Shanghai Style) and presented it beautifully. We also had steamed shrimp and crab. They served us some fish that wasn’t good at all, full of tiny pin bones so no one enjoyed that, but it didn’t matter, we had Chef Trans fish and it was amazing.
It was a three hour trip back so we all got to catch naps and talk about our experiences.
April 19
We had a morning visit to a local pho restaurant to once again compare the pho of the north, central and south.
It was there that we were greeted by the cameras and reporter from the Hanoi TV channel and they followed us around for the rest of the day.
John Hickson, Phil Meola and I were all interviewed about our experiences and everyone was very happy.
We all wore our chef coats to represent
Last but not least, we had our farewell dinner at the Emperor restaurant.
We had Green papaya salad with shrimp and pork, spring rolls, grilled beef in betel leaves, fried soft shell crab, steamed garrupa (grouper?) in dark sauce, eggplant in a clay pot and fresh fruit.
It was magnificent and a perfect ending to our extreme culinary tour of
April 20
We had the morning free to pack and check out, went with our guide to another local family owned restaurant for lunch. This one specialized in Bun Cha, which is a pork dish. Pork is prepared three different ways and is served with rice noodles on the side and fresh herbs to flavor and garnish. The pork was in meatballs, roasted and slice, and in a deep fried rice paper wrapper.
We met back at the hotel, took the ride to the airport and said our final farewells to Quynh. It felt odd to us that he was not going to be with us anymore. We were sad, but happy to be on the road again. Or should I say in the air. The trip home was much faster and smoother than the trip here.
I have tried to remember everything but know I have left things out of this because so much has happened. We have all eaten so much food we feel close to bursting. I myself have gained about 7 pounds.
This has truly been a life changing experience and I would recommend this adventure to anyone and everyone.
Dale Pyle
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